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PRS Assembly Manual

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Assemble your ShopBot PRS Gantry Tool

Note: Table shown is a PRSalpha. PRSstandards will not come with yellow push bars.

Before you Start

Table Surface Considerations

You will need to supply sheet material for the deck of your table. We recommend 3 sheets of material to give the table good rigidity. See discussion of the options at the end of the Table Assembly section. As a start you will need one layer of cabinet grade ¾” plywood for the bottom support layer – it will take several sheets to cover the work area if your tool is larger than 4x8. If you are installing a vacuum hold-down system, you will need to decide on specific materials for your plenum and bleeder board.



Electrical Precautions



MOTOR CONNECTIONS - DO NOT CONNECT OR DISCONECT ANY MOTOR WIRE CONECTORS WHILE YOUR CONTROL BOX IS TURNED ON !! During the process of a ‘hot’ connect or disconnect there is a high load put on the motor driver circuitry which is very likely to damage the motor driver. A damaged driver means that motor does not run correctly. Also, do not unwrap the heat-shrink surround that keeps your motor cables connected to the motors. It is intended to help keep all connections permanently secure.

STATIC DISCHARGES – Electronic circuits are very sensitive to static and power surges, and your Control Box is no exception. Please have your electrician follow the wiring and grounding instructions in the wiring section to help prevent static from damaging components of your tool. In particular, avoid doing any vacuuming around your tool before you have grounded both the tool and your vacuum system. Large static build-ups can occur inside a vacuum collection system and discharge accidentally through the wiring of your ShopBot.

INDUCED CURRENTS - The stepper motors on your tool become significant little generators if they are manually turned. They can generate sizable voltages in your control box if you push the X or Y-axis of your tool around physically. Occasionally it may be necessary to move the tool by hand, but try to minimize such movement and when you must do it, make the move slowly. If you need to do a lot of manual movement, unplug the motors on the axis you are moving - having shut down the power first as noted above.

 

Overview of Your ShopBot PRS CNC Tool

Note that the diagrams in this manual depict a generic ShopBot. Depending on the size and shape of your tool, the table layout may look a little different (fewer or more legs, different shape, etc.). Before you unpack and start to assemble your ShopBot PRS tool, let's go over the some of the major components and get familiar with the terminology and directions we'll be using:

THE TABLE To get us located, refer to the orientation diagram above and imagine looking at the tool from the position of the little man in the drawing. From this position, we'll call the lower left hand corner of the work area the tool's 0,0 (or home) location. The X-axis is the long length of the table and values increase going to the right from where you are standing. The Y-axis is the narrow width of the table (or front to back from your position on the long side) and values increase as you move away towards the back. The Z-axis is the vertical movement or the plunging and withdrawal movement of your tool. Decreases in Z values are plunges down by your cutting tool. Increases are movements of the cutting tool up.

Still looking from the position of the little man, consider the furthest away X-axis track that the bearings ride on to be at the back of the tool, the track nearest the little man to be at the front, the left side the left, and so on. As you're positioning your tool in your shop, keep in mind that you will typically be loading sheet material from the left or right side so you should be sure to leave yourself some room to move around at one or both ends of the tool. We'll use the words or 'car' to refer to the entire moving unit of a particular axis. The big gantry is thus the X Car, and the one that rides on it, the YZ Car.



The electrical cabling will be arranged along the back of the tool, so this is the part of the tool that can be placed nearer a wall, obstruction, or where there will generally be less action. Note, however, that it is best if you are able to walk around and access your tool from all sides. The wiring for the Y and Z axes will be attached to a clear plastic Wire Guide. The Wire Guide arches out from the back right hand corner of the X-Car to the front right of the YZ-Car, as seen from the little man. Note that the X-Car mounts with the sloped side (front of car) to the left.

THE X-AXIS. The X-axis is the basis for your tool's right and left moves (as seen by you as the little man in the front of the diagram) -- it's the long axis on a standard ShopBot. Note that the distance between the tracks on the X-axis is wide. Because of this span, we power the X-Car movement with 2 motors, one on each side. The X-Car is driven by a rack and pinion power transmission system. The gear rack is mounted on the bottom of the long X rails and engaged by the pinion gear on the motor shaft.

THE Y-AXIS. The Y-axis provides the front to back movement of your ShopBot (the short axis for a standard ShopBot). Note that the Y-axis rides on the X-axis. The gear rack for the Y axis is mounted in the face of the X-Car beam.

THE Z-AXIS. The Z-axis is vertical, rides the face of the YZ-Car, and moves the cutting tool up and down. The drive system for the Z-axis is also rack and pinion. The Z axis is springloaded to counterbalance the weight of your router or spindle.

THE ROLLING GEAR. Throughout your PRS ShopBot, precision motion bearings roll on hardened stainless steel rails to provide your tool with smooth travel.

THE CONTROLS. Your ShopBot is moved and controlled by a personal computer (running Windows XP, Vista, or Windows7) that you provide. In the ShopBot Control software, signals are streamed from the PC's USB port through a USB cable to the ShopBot Control Box. The Control Box is placed near the tool and provides the driving power to the motors. The Control Box also receives incoming information from other devices such as your Z-Zero Plate and Proximity Switches.

Tools needed

 



Tools You Will Need

  • a wrench set with TWO wrenches of the following sizes 7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16”, and
    3/4”(the type with box end on one side and open end on the other works well).
  • a socket wrench set with a 6” extension
  • an Allen wrench set
  • a drill for a couple of holes in the sheets of material you will use for your table
    surface (say 1/4” and 7/16”)
  • a good tape measure, a carpenter's square, and a level (a six foot one that you can
    use for a straight edge would be good)
  • several Quick Clamps or large C-clamps to temporarily hold things and act as STOPS
  • Misc: the odd screwdriver, adjustable wrench and pliers, utility knife, electrical tape
    (in a color that you can mark on) or masking tape, marking pen, your wits, etc.
  • 1 gallon yellow carpenter's glue





Unpacking and Getting Your Work Area Organized:


You will receive a large shipping crate with the already-assembled X-Car and YZCar. One of the large cartons inside the crate holds the ShopBot Control Box. The motors and motor cables are packaged together. The long package with the rails and table sides will usually be strapped to the top of the shipping crate. You can unpack the rails and cars so that you can identify them and have them ready. Be careful not to damage the gear rack on the bottom of the rails. Unpack and lay out the parts bags on your work surface. Don't worry about the Control Box for the moment; you can set it aside until we're ready to connect your ShopBot.
We've pre-assembled most components of your tool to make things go a little more smoothly. In many places, bolts or hardware are loosely fit in place to show you their intended location; you may have to remove them to attach the part.

By way of giving you a little guidance: It takes one of us about 6 hours to assemble a ShopBot, so we think you should be able to put your ShopBot together over a pleasant weekend if you've already read through this Assembly Manual. Of course, the IRS thinks that preparing your 1040 should take 2 hours and 43 minutes, with a further 23 minutes for copying, assembling, and mailing the form!!

There are several stages in the assembly process where having a helper or two will be useful to you. In particular, you will want help unloading and unpacking, getting the table assembly started, and putting the X-Car on the rails. Please remember that several of the components are very heavy!

Connection to Electrical Service

The Control Box needs to be connected to your electrical service by a licensed electrician. This connection can be made at any convenient time, before or after you complete assembly of the tool. The electrician does not need to be present when you plug the wiring from the tool into the Control Box. However, it may be best to wait until the tool is assembled and in its final position before having the electrical service hooked up. Waiting will allow you to make sure you have the Control Box positioned in the best location for your tool. The complete wiring diagrams for connecting the Control Box can be found inside the door of the Control Box and will be needed by the electrician to correctly wire the box into the electrical service.

If you have purchased a high frequency spindle and/or a vacuum blower, these will also need to be wired by a licensed electrician. The electrician will wire the spindle into the Control Box and connect the appropriate electrical service. The electrician will also wire your blower to the correct electrical service. The Control Box for a PRSstandard tool plugs into a standard 110v/15A (or 220v international) circuit. However, if you have spindle or blower, you should have an electrician do the wiring for these accessories.

 

Table Assembly


These are general assembly instructions for our steel and aluminum extrusion tables. For specific dimensions and part identification, use the table drawing included in your assembly manual, or download the Measured Drawing for the specific size ShopBot you are assembling. The Measured Drawing plans show the dimensions of the tools, the spacing of the cross supports, and the correct position for the table deck. Also the number of legs / cross support on each side of the table differs according to the size ShopBot you are assembling.

NOTE: It is critical that you follow the X and Y dimensions in the table drawing when assembling your tool, including where you place the table deck.

Take a look in the section Square and Level Table before you start. The goal of this assembly process is to have a square and correctly dimensioned table at the end point. In the final step you will be attempting to get the table square and the table sides exactly dimensioned for your tool.

 

Table Parts





Table Gusset
 Table Leg


1/2" Bolt

 1/2" Flat washer
 1/2" Hex nut
 1/2" Lock Washer


5/16" Bolt

5/16" Flat washer

Tee nut

Leg Leveler

(in several sizes)

(w 5/8 nut and lockwasher)

Attach Leg Levelers to the Table Legs

Screw a Leg Leveler through the 5/8” nut in the bottom of each Table Leg, and hand tighten a 5/8” hex nut on the Leg Leveler. Do not tighten at this time (see Step 5). Repeat for all legs.



Bottom of Table Leg showing Leg Leveler assembly



Attach the Table Legs to the Table Sides

    

Place 5/16” bolts, flat washers and T-nuts at the eight holes on each of the Table Legs.


Looking down on table leg


Attach the first leg to the inside of the Table Side by sliding the T-nuts into the side channels on the Table Side. Square the Table Leg to Table Side and tighten just enough to hold the pieces securely in place. Keep in mind that you will want to tighten all nuts securely at the end of the table assembly when you square the table. If you tighten all fasteners too much now, you won’t be able to square the table later.

    


   

Temporarily attach the other table leg to the outside of the table side. This leg will be moved to the inside of the table in the section Working the other End of the Table

 

 

Table Sides with legs attached


Attach the First Upper Table Support

Attach the first upper cross support to the end of the table. Start it on from the side with the temporary outside leg. Slide the T-nuts for the upper cross support into the bottom channel of each table side on the far end. Then slide the support all the way down and close to the table leg, leaving approximately 3/16” between the leg and the upper cross support for the gussets.

  



Insert the Gussets between the Table Legs and the Upper Table Support and attach using ½” Hardware Assemblies.  



Attach the Lower Table Support to the bottom holes in the Table Legs using ½” Hardware.

    

Lower Table Support showing attachment to Table Leg.

   

 

Your table should now look like this:



Slide the Cross Supports into Position

Attach two 5/16” hardware assemblies to each end of the cross supports. Then slide the T-nuts into the bottom channels of the table sides and slide the cross supports into position. Refer to the Measured Drawing for your table size for proper spacing of the cross supports.

    


Note: A Little WD40 sprayed in these bottom channels makes the next steps easier



 

Adding the Middle Legs

    

For the middle legs you will need to repeat some of the previous steps. First you will need to add a second upper cross support. This upper cross support need to turned be turned around 180 degrees from the first upper cross support though. The corner of the upper cross support should be facing away from the last cross support installed.

Slide in the middle legs as instructed earlier. The upper two holes in the side of the leg should match up with the holes in the upper cross support, if not, then the upper cross support will need to be turned around so that it does match.

Attach the lower cross support as previously instructed (side does not matter).

Add the third upper cross support. Orient this upper cross support exactly as the first upper cross support that was installed. The two 5/8” holes should match up with the holes that are in the side of the table leg. Finally, attach the gussets as previously instructed.

With another cross support installed your table should look something like this.

    


Working the other End of the Table

Install 5/16” Hardware Assemblies on the Upper Table Support and slide it into position. Notice that the lead edge of the support inserts first, this time

    


   

Attach the gussets on this end to the upper cross support. Use ½” hardware assemblies.


Move the table legs to the inside.


Attach the lower cross supports to the bottom holes in the table legs using ½” hardware assemblies. Attach remaining bolts on gussets.

    

Your table should now look like this:

    

 

Square and Level Table

       

Set the legs perpendicular to the Table Sides with a square and tighten.

Set the table where it will be used. Plan to spend a little time getting it square and adjusted to the exact correct width measurement.

   

Level the tops of the Table Sides across and diagonally using the Machine Glides. Then tighten the 5/8” nuts on the Machine Glides.

Measure the table across both diagonals. If the measurements are not the same, the table is not square. You will need to shorten the longer diagonal by one-half the difference of the two diagonal measurements. With a mallet or hammer & protective block of wood, gently tap the end of the table side at one end of the longer diagonal to shorten as needed. Adjust the table until the measurements across the diagonals match.

Then, work to adjust the distance between the rails to the exact spacing indicated in the table below. It can be helpful to cut a measurement gauge from a 2x4 to use to set the distance between the table sides. Make sure the gauge distance is right and giving you the correct outside to outside measurements.

Tighten all hardware once the table is measured and square. Check the diagonals and the distances frequently as you move around the table tightening the bolts.

    


 



 ========== ========== WORK AREA WIDTH
 ========== ==========
Dimension
 32" (81.28cm) 48” (121.92cm) 60” (12.40cm) 72” (182.88cm) 108" (274.32cm)
Outside to Outside of Table Sides 46.172" (117.27cm) 64.5” (163.83cm) 76.5”(194.31cm) 88.5”(234.79cm) 124.5" (316.23cm)
Gauge between Rail Spacing 43.172" (105.65cm) 61.5”(156.21cm) 73.5”(186.69cm) 85.5”(217.17cm) 121.5" (308.61cm)
Table Deck    


Suggested Materials

    

For your deck we recommend the following materials to provide good rigidity.

  • Support Board (bottom layer)
¾” Shop grade or cabinet grade plywood or better (birch, maple, poplar…hardwoods)
  • Vacuum Plenum Board if installing a Vacuum System
¾” Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), exterior if available
  • Spoil Board
1/2” or 3/4” MDF or LDF, surfaced on both sides to remove the factory surface and expose the porous inner core for a vacuum system, or unsurfaced if not installing vacuum.


Attaching the Table Surface

Refer to the Measured Table Drawing for your tool for positioning information for the table surface. The drawings also show how to position multiple sheets if your table is larger than 4x8. You will center the support board(s) in the X direction. There should be about 1” of material past the end support at each end. The Y-axis measurement for all table sizes is 6.75” in from the inside face of the front table side.

Clamp the first Deck layer in position, then attach through the holes in the cross supports with the 3/8” by 1.5” carriage bolts that are included in your parts. Use every-other diagonal hole in an alternating pattern in the Center Cross supports; every hole in the end supports.

From under the table, drill a 1/8" pilot hole through the Deck Boards, using the Upper End Cross Supports and alternating holes in the center Cross Supports

Counterbore the holes on the top of the Deck with a 1" spade bit, deep enough for the head of a carriage bolt to be just below the surface, and then drill through the 1/8" pilot holes with a 3/8" bit.

Insert the ⅜” x 1½” carriage bolts down through the Deck Board, Upper End Cross Supports, or center Cross Support, and attach with flat washers, lock washers and nuts.

If you are putting a vacuum hold-down system on your ShopBot, please see the documentation for the vacuum hold-down system for more information on installing your plenum and bleeder board.

If you are not installing vacuum, glue a second layer to the first Deck layer using clamps around the edges and heavy weights in the center. When your tool is operational you will be able to surface this layer.

    




 

Installing the X-Rails

     

Slide the X-Rails onto the Table


 Mount the X-rails with 5/16 bolts and T-nuts. You’ll slide these nuts into the top track of the table sides similarly to what you did with the table legs and cross supports.
After you get both rails in position, hand-tighten the bolts.    
BE CAREFUL SLIDING THE RAILS ONTO THE TRACK. IT IS VERY EASY TO PINCH YOUR FINGERS WHEN INSERTING THE NUTS INTO THE TRACKS AS YOU SLIDE THE RAIL ON .

Refer to Table drawings for specific model



Set the Front Side X-Rail and Check for Straightness






With bolts “finger tight,” move along the X-rail on the Front Side of your tool, aligning the aluminum bar on the inside exactly flush with the inside of the table side. Then start at one end further tightening the bolts. As you continue to lock the Front X-rail in position, slide your 6’ level or straight edge along the outside edge of the rail to check for straightness. Nudge the aluminum bar slightly if it needs adjustment. When you’ve got in position and straight, fully tighten all the bolts on the front side rail.      

Adjust the Position of the Rear X-Rail

 You’ll use a tape measure to set the initial position of the rear X-rail. Always make these kinds of important measurements from the 1” mark on the tape. Do not trust the accuracy of the clip at the end of the tape.
  • Consult the chart below for the approximate distance, outside edge to outside edge, for the rails.
  • Use the tape to check the distance at each of the bolts, and adjust where necessary. Try to get within 1/32 of the distance. Note that the edge portion of the rails is ¼” wide, so there will be a 1/16” mark that should fall on the exact centerline of the ‘V’ of the rail.
  • Tighten these bolts on the rear rail down just a bit. But note that you are probably going to need to adjust the rear rail slightly again, after putting the X-Car in place.
   


=========

=========

 WORK AREA WIDTH ========= =========
DIMENSION 32" (81.28cm) 48” (121.92cm) 60” (12.40cm) 72” (182.88cm) 108" (274.32cm)
Outside to Outside of Rail 47.484" (120.60cm)
 65.812" (167.16cm) 77.812”(197.64cm) 89.812”(228.12cm) 125.812" (319.56cm)
Outside to Outside of Table 46.172" (117.27cm) 64.5” (163.83cm) 76.5”(194.31cm) 88.5”(234.79cm) 124.5" (316.23cm)

 

Using the X-Car to Align the X Rails

Lower the X-Car onto the X Rails


 The X-Car is fully assembled and ready to be placed on the rails. This is a 2-4 person operation as the car is     HEAVY!
Note that the car goes on the rails so that the sloping edge of the X-Car faces towards the left when you are at the front of the tool.    

  • As you put the car in position, seat the wheel bearings on the Front Side X Rail and then place the rear bearings over the Rear X Rail. You may find it easier to lay the Car over on its back first, with the beam across the rails and engaging only the bearings on the back of the X-Car. Then, when you are ready, you can stand it up and engage the wheel bearings on the Car’s front end. You may need to loosen the rear X Rail at this point and adjust it slightly so that the bearings come into exact alignment.
   
Detail
  • Put a Quick-clamp (or C-Clamp) at the end of each rail to create a temporary end stop to prevent the X-Car from rolling off the table while you are carrying out the next tasks!
    Use the X-Car as a Guide to Align the Rear X Rail
  • Roll the car down to the middle bolt of the X rail so that you start the process from the center of the table and work out to the ends.
  • Clamp the side of the X-Car on the straightened, front rail so that the wheel bearings are centered and locked onto the rails.
  • Move back to the rear rail. Loosen up all the bolts a tad. Then make whatever adjustment is needed to get the rails perfectly under the rear bearings.
  • Work on this progressively over the rear rails, moving out from the center. There should be enough adjustment in the rail to allow you to get the rear rail perfectly aligned over its full length.
     

If You have a Wheel that Floats

 After you have aligned the X rails, move the X-Car down the rails. Pay close attention to the wheels while doing so. All wheels should remain in contact with the rail throughout the length of travel. That being said, it is sometimes hard to determine whether it is the rails that are out or the X-Car that may have a slight toe in or out. To diagnose this it is best to have someone apply there body weight to one side of the X-Car while watching the wheels. This forces the error to the opposite side of the X-Car if there is any.
If the wheel rises at a certain spot throughout its travel then most often the rails need to be realigned. Chances are good that the rails are not exactly parallel causing the wheel(s) to ride to the inside or outside of the rail. If the wheel floats throughout the length of the travel, then this will require the end plate to be loosened contact ShopBot for instruction.
This is the hardest step, so take a deep breath and congratulate yourself when you’ve gotten it accomplished!!!    
Note that the weight and rigidity of the cars, their wide wheel base, and the self-centering nature of the V-groove wheels will take care of slight errors in the rails, but you want to get the rails as well aligned as you can.
   


Mounting and adjusting the YZ-Car

     

Place YZ-Car on the X-Car


 The YZ-Car is a single piece that is ready to be placed onto the rails that cross the face of the X-Car beam.
  • Roll the X-Car up to the far left side of the table and clamp it in place to make the installation easy.
  • Remove the lower wheels before setting the YZ-Car in place. Notice that these wheels are on an eccentric (adjustable) stud.
  • After you have removed the lower wheels, lower the YZ-Car down onto the rail, seating the upper wheels on the upper Y-Rail. The car will sit in place on these top wheels.
   


Attach the Lower Wheels on the YZ-Car

 With the YZ-Car in position and riding on its upper wheels, you can install the lower wheels. Note that the assembly incorporates eccentric wheels (having an off-center shaft), which will be used for the final adjustment of the wheel.    


Insert the threaded portion of the wheels into the hole in the YZ-plate. Tilt the wheel down slightly so that the ‘V’ of the wheel is inline with the track. A Red mark on the face of the wheel indicates the location of greatest opening between wheel and rail. Initially aligning this Red mark in the 12 o’clock position will give the most wiggle room.    
   


Once the bearing is loosely in position, tighten the flange-nut until it's fully tightened to seat the stud on the wheel, and with both wheels in place, start tightening the flange nuts. Use the flat bar wrench to hold the wheels in the 12 o'clock position while completely tightening the flange nut. Now loosen the nut a quarter turn so that the wheel can be adjusted. Move to the other side and bring the other wheel to the same state, making sure that both wheels are fully seated on the rail.    


Adjust the Lower Wheels in the YZ-Car








The lower wheels is adjusted tight by rotating its eccentric shaft. The shaft is off-center, when rotated it moves the wheel into and out of contact with the rail. A Red mark indicates the location of greatest opening between wheel and rail. The adjustment is done most easily with the flat bar wrench included with the machine.    
   

Start with the Red mark at 12 o’clock Rotate the shaft in a clockwise direction in small increments until it fully engages the rail. Try to rock the YZ-Car back and forth from the front to make sure the wheel is tightly engaged and there is no wiggle, but do not over-tighten.    


Check your adjustment over the entire rail. You should not be able to stop the wheel from turning with finger pressure. It can be tight enough to produce a slight amount of resistance to rolling. Do not over tighten.    


When you have each wheel adjusted, hold the flat wrench while locking the wheel in position, tighten the nut securely     .    


Attach the Y-axis Rail Wipers

The next step is to attach the rail wipers over the Y-axis wheels, to both keep the rails clean from dust and project and guard the wheels.

      


The Y-axis wiper kit includes 4 rail wipers with foam inserts, and 8 mounting bolts. You'll need a small amount of 3 in 1 oil or the equivalent.
The first step is to insert the foam pieces into the wiper bodies
Next add 2 drops of oil to each foam insert
Mount the rail wipers so that they cover the Y-axis wheels, using the included bolts and the matching holes in the Y-axis car

 

Attach the Wheel Guards

This is a good time to put the Wheel Guards on the X-Axis Car. A Wheel Guard is mounted on the leading and trailing edge of each X Car End Plates, outside each of the 4 Wheel Bearings. The guards are plates that attach to the End Plates, using two ¼" socket-head bolts and lock washers into tapped holes for each plate. You'll find all the hardware in a packet (these plates are universal and in a package of 7; others will be used below).


Attaching the Motors



Put the Pinion Gears on the Motors

Locate the X and Y motors. These motors will already be fitted to a blue motor plate. Also find the bag that contains the pinion gears.

A Word about the Cables

       Depending on the control system purchased with the ShopBot will dictate how the cables are attached. PRSalpha systems have the cables pre-wired to the motors so the cables must be run back to the ShopBot control box. PRSstandard systems have the cables pre-wired into the ShopBot control box and will be connected and heat shrunk to the motors later.
  • Fit a pinion gear on each of the motors and set the end of the gear flush with the motor shaft. NOTE: Don’t tighten the set screw yet; we’ll test fit the motors on the tool first.
     
  • Note that the motor cables are color-coded to indicate the axis of the motor.
    RED is X axis (there is an X-1 and an X-2 motor).
    BLUE is the Y axis.
    WHITE is the Z axis.
    YELLOW is an accessory axis.


Mount the Motors

Since the motor cables (of correct lengths and motor direction orientation) have already been configured for the motors, it is important that the motors and brackets be mounted in the correct location. The mounting hardware for each motor (4 bolts) is already fitted to the tool in the locations where the motors will be mounted.



 

  • Make sure that you have the right motor for the right location, then attach the motor with two bolts and check to make sure the pinion is aligned with the rack.

 

  • After checking the pinion alignment, remove the motor. Adjust the pinion location on the motor shaft if necessary. Then tighten the two set screws. These set screws have an embedded locking compound. Make sure you get them seated tightly at this point.

              
 
  • With the pinion now fully tightened, mount the motor with all 4 bolts. Note that the brackets are slotted. Slide the motor up so that the pinion is tightly engaged into the rack.




      We recommend applying grease to the rack and pinions. A good quality bearing, lithium, or Teflon grease will work well. The grease will keep the rack motion smooth and reduce gear wear. (Surprisingly little debris actually collects in the grease.) Apply it by squeezing a little into the rack every few inches. Moving the tool around will spread the grease and you can wipe off any excess. It’s OK to push the cars around, as long as they are not connected to the control box yet.

 

Setting the Mechanical End Stops

The Mechanical End Stops are aluminum blocks that limit the movement of the car on the axis by stopping the pinion motion for the X-axis (The Y stops are already positioned). The blocks are locked into the slotted track just under the gear rack by two set screws. You will position one at the end of each table side. So you will put 4 under the X-Rails - one on each end of each table side.


Take a moment to be sure that both X- and Y- Cars are moving up and down the rails smoothly. The motors will create some resistance, but the motion should be smooth and even with all wheels riding on the rails and pinions fully engaged.  

 

Set the Mechanical End Stops for the X Axis



Lay out the 4 mechanical stops, one at each end of the rack under the X-Rails. Check to make sure that the stops slide firmly into place under the ½” rack. Use the ⅛” Allen wrench, supplied with the pinion gear pack, to tighten down the blocks.
  • Carefully roll the X-Car to one end of the X-Rails, watching the inside of the X-Rail. Roll the car until the wheels are resting within ¼” of the end of the X-rails. Put a clamp on the rail to hold the car in place at that position
  • Slide the Mechanical Stops into the track and up against the pinion on each rail. Then push the car back.
  • Tighten the stop in position using the supplied allen wrench.
  • Move the X-Car to the other end of the table and set the other stops.
  • When you later fine tune the square of the gantry, it may be necessary to do a final adjustment of the position of the X-Car end stops. See section on Squaring.

 

Mounting a router or spindle

           

The ShopBot control box has been configured based on whether a Porter Cable router or spindle was desired at the time you placed your order. Since the power requirements are different for a router than for a Spindle, we install different components in the control box depending on which cutter you specified. They are not interchangeable, unless you purchase a control box that was pre-wired for future expansion or upgrades. Before retro-fitting your tool from a router to a spindle or vice-versa, please call ShopBot to discuss the changes you will need to make to reconfigure your tool.

         

If You Have a Porter Cable Router




           The Porter Cable fits into the aluminum bracket that is already attached to the Z-axis.
 
  • Remove the plastic insert from the router mount. Loosen the grounding screw enough to slide the plastic insert out.
  • Slide the router barrel into the plastic insert and then into the aluminum sleeve. Note that there is a hole in the plastic insert for so that the grounding screw can be tightened to make contact with the router shell. Line this up when you are inserting the router into the mounting sleeve.
  • Tighten the bracket around the router with an Allen wrench. Then tighten the grounding screw “hand-tight”.
         


If You Have a High Frequency Spindle:



The spindle will come fitted with an aluminum mounting plate. This plate attaches to the holes at the bottom of the Z-axis using (6) 5/16” socket-head bolts. These bolts pass through the beam and into the plate. As they are tightened, they will seat into the bottom of the counter bores in the slot.  

  • To mount the spindle, move the gantry up to the far end of the table. Pull the Z- axis beam down to expose the back of the 6 bolt holes. Clamp it in position so it does not pull back up while you are working on it. Hold the spindle to the beam and start the 6 bolts into the plate. Note that these bolts do not use washers.
  • Pull the plate up evenly by tightening all the bolts gradually. Then do a final tightening of all the bolts.
   

         


Mounting a VFD

   

There are two major body sizes for the VFD 10” and 16”. The VFDs are specific to different
voltages and phases but this does not impact the mounting of the unit.

                        

Mount a 10" VFD


            

  The 10” VFD will mount to the top and middle set of holes in the middle leg of the ShopBot gantry tools with the VFD 1000 mounting kit (003065).

 


Use the ¼-20x3/4” button head screw to attach the upper hole of the VFD to the left hole in the strap. Using the ¼” flat washer and ¼” nylock nut, securely fasten to the strap. Repeat this for the lower strap.  



Use the ¼-20x3/4” button head screw to attach the right upper hole of the VFD to the middle hole in the strap and upper left hole of the leg. Using the ¼” flat washer and ¼” nylock nut, securely fasten the VFD and strap to the leg. Repeat this for the lower strap.

Use the ¼-20x3/4 flat head screw in the last hole of the strap and fasten it securely to the leg with the ¼” flat washer and ¼” nylock nut. Repeat for both straps.        

Mounting a 16" VFD



The 16” VFD will mount to the top and bottom set of holes in the middle leg of the ShopBot gantry tools with the VFD 1000 mounting kit (003065). If you have an earlier ShopBot that does not have 6 mounting holes on the front middle, it may be necessary to check the attached leg drawing and drill the upper and lower set.  

Mounting the VFD straps



Use the ¼-20x3/4 Flat head screw in the middle hole of the VFD mounting strap and the upper left hole on the front middle leg of the ShopBot. Attach securely using the ¼” flat washer and ¼” nylock nut. Repeat this step on the lower set of holes with the second strap.

Attach the VFD





On the right side of the VFD, use the ¼-20x3/4” button head screw to attach the upper hole of the VFD thru the right hole in the strap, and into the leg. Using the ¼” flat washer and ¼” nylock nut, securely fasten to the leg. Repeat on the lower mounting position.


On the left side of the VFD, use the same ¼-20x3/4” button head screw to attach the upper hole of the VFD to the left hole in the strap. Using the ¼” flat washer and ¼” nylock nut, securely fasten to the strap.

 

Y-axis Energy Chain Installation

     

 

This section shows how to install the Energy chain (Echain) on the Y-axis on ShopBot PRS. Note that the dust collection hose from the ShopBot Dust Skirt must be routed overhead when an Echain is installed; the Y-upper Echain bracket has a fixed attachment point for a dust collection hose.

 

The Y-axis Echain Components

            

The Y-axis Echain has three main components and a few specialized pieces of hardware.

The Y-upper Echain bracket (002160-01) mounts to the back of the YZ-car and carries the Echain. Hose clamps in the slots of the tab support the dust hose. This bracket is mounted on either the left (PRS) or the right (PRS BT) of the YZ-car if you are looking at the spindle head on.


The Echain comes in the length to match the width of the Y-axis of the ShopBot ordered. These Echains are center mounted so the Echain itself will not physically extend from the end plate to the Y-upper Echain bracket.

The Y-lower Echain bracket (002161-01) mounts to the top of the Y-beam extrusion and holds the Echain at a fixed location near the center of the gantry. Location of this bracket differs on various width ShopBots. A chart is included later in the instructions..



One of the specialized pieces of mounting hardware is the 5/16-18 Twist in T-Nut (002240-01). Two of these are used to mount the Y-lower Echain bracket to the Ybeam extrusion. They slide into the slot of the extrusion and turn 90° when tightened.


The last piece of specialized hardware is the cable carrier (002282-01). These slip inside the slot of the Y-beam extrusion and turn 90° to help with wire management for cables going through the Echain. Zip ties are used in combination with these to achieve this.


Other hardware used to mount these will be called out through out this document when needed.

Mounting the Y-axis Echain on the PRS


Remove any previously-installed wire guide and wire guide brackets from the gantry and YZ-car if necessary. When the YZ-car is viewed head on, the Y-upper Echain bracket will be located on the back left side of the YZ car and the Echain will loop to send the cables toward the back of the ShopBot.


 

Step 1: Installing the Y-upper Echain bracket.


  • (1) Y-upper Echain bracket (002160-01)
  • (2) ¼-20 x 1/2 socket head screws
  • (2) ¼” lock washers
  • (2) ¼” flat washers
On the back left side edge of the YZ-car there are 2 ¼-20 holes. Align the holes in the longest tab of the Y-upper Echain bracket with the tapped holes of the YZ car. Using the ¼-20 screws, lock washers, and flat washers, secure the bracket tightly to the YZ car.


Step 2: Mounting the Echain to Y-upper bracket


  • (1) Echain
  • (2) 10-32 flat head screws
  • (2) #10 flat washers
  • (2) #10 lock washers
  • (2) 10-32 hex nuts
Position the Echain so that it loops towards the right when you are facing the front of the YZ car. Align the counter sunk holes in the Echain with the holes in the top tab of the Y-upper bracket. Use the screws, flat washers, lock washers, and hex nut to tighten the Echain to the Y-upper bracket.


 

Step 3: Mounting the Y-lower Echain bracket


  • (1) Y-lower Echain bracket (002161-01)
  • (2) 5/16-18 Twist in T-Nut (002240-01)
  • (2) 5/16-18 x 5/8 flat head screws
  • (2) 10-32 x ¾ flat head screws

Place the 5/16 flat head screws into the Y-lower Echain bracket. Start a few of the threads of the twist in T-nut onto the screws.


Align the counter sunk holes in the Echain with the holes in the top of the Y-lower bracket. Loosely start the 10-32 x ¾ screws into the Y-lower Echain bracket. Position the Y-lower bracket the correct distance from the back side end plate on the PRS ShopBot from the chart below.

Note: Distances are measured from the edge closest to the counter sunk holes of the Y-lower bracket to the inside edge of the back side end plate.

Tighten the 5/16-18 flat heads and Twist in T-nuts into the slots of the gantry extrusion and then tighten the 10-32 screws fully.

 

Chart showing distance from End Plate to edge of Y-Lower Bracket


Cutting width in Y-axis (Beam length)
 Distance between end plate and Y-lower bracket
32in (47.992in or 1219mm)
 22.50in (572mm)
48in (66.338in or 1685mm)
 31.50in (800mm)
60in (78.346in or 1990mm)
 37.50in (953mm)
72in (90.354in or 2295mm)
 43.50in (1105mm)
108in (126.456 or 3212mm)
 61.50in (1562mm)


           

After the Echain is installed, move the Y-axis back and forth the full extent of travel. The Echain should at no time feel as though it is binding or under tension. If this appears to be the case, loosen the 5/16-18 flat heads and adjust the Y-lower bracket slightly.

 

Secure cables and wiring              

           

Opening the Echain




Use wire ties in addition with the strain relief tabs on the ends of the Echain to help with the strain relief of the cables, leaving a little slack before tightening the ties. DO NOT use wire ties inside the Echain. This could result in added strain on the cables.


Place the cable carriers on the top side of the gantry extrusion. Evenly space these between the Y-lower bracket and the end plate inside the 2 slots in the extrusion. Place the lower end into the slot and turn 90° to lock the cable carrier in place. Use wire ties to secure cables along the length of the gantry and off the back of the machine.





 

 

Proximity Switches and other wiring

Use a chained wire tie (link 3 standard wire ties together) and secure the X-2 Motor Cable to the base of the X-2 Motor. Run the cable to the back side of the front End Plate, and secure it with two wire ties behind the back lip of the plate.                           



Move the YZ-car to the far end of the Y-axis so that the motor is not over the Echain. This keeps the motor from interfering with the hinged access bars. With a flat head screw driver, insert the tip into either side of the hinged access bar. Turn the screw driver approximately ¼ turn clockwise and then ¼ counterclockwise or until the sides of the access bars release. Open the access bars to run all wiring that is common to the YZ-car, spindles, or air drills.                           

Caution: Due to the low clearance of the Z motor in relation to the Echain, DO NOT attempt to move the YZ-car while the hinged access bars are in the open position. Doing so will result in the snapping off of these access bars.

Now you will run the wire for motors and accessories and do a little tidying up, then you'll be ready to plug in your tool, test it out, and put it to use. We will use a lot of wire-ties in this step, so in addition to your other tools, get the wire-tie bag handy and a set of nippers to trim them with. [If you have never done it before, note that if you need to cover a long distance with ties, you can piggy-back 2 or 3 of them together to create a larger loop.

            

 

Install the Proximity Switches

You'll find the Proximity/Limit Switches in a bag, ready to mount. These switches are used to set the zero location for the X and Y axes, and also serve to signal the end of the axis to the tool and limit its motion. The switches look like a piece of threaded rod with a wire exiting from one side. They are sensors that you will mount on the YZ Car and on the back of the X Car.

                           


X-axis target hardware:

2 -5/16" hex bolts
2- 5/16" nuts
2- 5/16" flat washers
2- 5/16" t-nuts

           

Install the switches and targets as indicated below using the hardware that is packaged with them.


 One Proximity Switch (for the X Axis) mounts through a hole in the bottom of the rear End Plate on the X Car. The second Proximity Switch (for the Y Axis) mounts through a hole on the left side of the YZ Car.


                                            

Attach the switches as indicated, with a nut holding them on each side of the plate, and adjust the switches so that they protrude about 1/8" from the inside of the car.

            Y-Axis Targets.

Have a look at the front side of the Y-Axis Beam on the X Car. You will see that there are two bolt heads sticking up in the grooves between the two rails. These are the targets for the proximity switches (the switches work by electrical induction.

 

Push the Proximity Switch over these targets and check the spacing. You want about a 2mm gap (.08") between the target and the Proximity Switch. Later on after you get your tool connected, we'll show you the steps for checking and adjusting these targets and installing the X-axis targets.

 

Mount Your Z-Zero Plate Holster

      

The Z-Zero plate is a thin stick of aluminum that is used to Zero your tool in the Z axis to the height of the material you are working with, or to your table -- typically after you have changed cutters. You'll find it with its cable in a bag in your shipping crate.

You can mount the Z-Zero Plate Holster anywhere that is convenient for you, either on or off the tool. Here we'll describe how to "holster" it on the tool, near where you will need it. The holster is made of two pieces of aluminum channel that capture the Z-Zero Plate from the side. We find the best location in our use to be in the middle of the Z axis beam if you are using a router, or on the side of the spindle if using a spindle.

You can go ahead and install the holster brackets now so that you can run the wire along with other cabling, or you can wait until you've used the tool for a while to decide if you want the Z-Zero plate on the tool, or at your work station.

The channel pieces have adhesive on the back that is used to mount them. Mount them so they will just capture the plate as it slides in and jam tight at the bend at the top. The adhesive also electrically isolates the plate when not in use.

Note that the cabling for the Z-Zero plate also has a connector that can be used to connect the optional digitizing probe

               

 

 

Neaten up the Wiring of the Front X-2 Motor

                  Use a chained wire tie (link 3 standard wire ties together) and secure the X-2 Motor Cable to the base of the X-2 Motor. Run the cable to the back side of the Front End Plate, and secure it with two wire ties behind the back lip of the plate.                            

Run the YZ Wiring
  • Now run the router/spindle wire directly from the router/spindle using a large loop and attaching it at the second wire-tie, The loop from the router/spindle should allow the router/spindle full motion without the wire being in danger of chaffing on the Z beam or YZ Car.
  • Before running the motor wires, secure them first as they exit the motor, close to the base of the motor using a long wire-tie (3 linked together).
  • Note that for the Proximity Switch, there are two holes for securing the wire up to the wire guide. Make sure this wire can’t get under the wheel bearing.
You’ll run the wiring from the YZ motors, router/spindle, proximity switch, and Z-Zero plate (if mounted) from the YZ Car, through the Echain. You will tie the router/spindle cable on the left side of center, and the motor and accessory wires to the right side of center. You want to keep the electrically-noisy router/spindle wires as separate as possible from the other wires. As you are first laying the wires out, only tighten the wire ties in a loose loop. After you are sure everything is in the right place you can draw the ties tight and trim them. Later, you can also attach your dust collector hose.            

           

Neaten up the Wiring at the Back Side of the X Car

 

Create a Cable Loop on the way to the Control Box

Wire-tie the X-1 Motor Cable to the base of the motor with a lengthened wire tie.
Secure all the cables coming from the Echain (except the router/spindle cable), along with the X-1 Motor Cable, behind the rear lip of the Back End Plate using 2 wire ties. 

  • From the point where the cables leave the back of the X Car, you can tie the motor and accessory cables into a single bundle with a wire every foot or so.
 
  • Don’t bundle the router/spindle cable with the other wiring. You will run the Router/Spindle cable over basically the same route as the Motor and switch Cables, but avoid having it any closer or more parallel than necessary by letting it hang slightly differently, etc.
 
  • Use the remaining 3 universal Bracket Plates to attach the wiring to the bottom of the table. Use 1/4" x 5/8" bolts and Tee-nuts in the lowest groove in the table side, then wire-tie through the lower holes in those plates.
                         

  • Create a large loop in both the Motor Wire Bundle and the router/spindle cable as it exits the X gantry. This loop should be just long enough that the car is able to transit from one end to the other of the tool without straining the cable.

    You’ve now completed assembly of your PRS CNC Tool and are ready to connect it to the Control Box and try it out. The instructions for hooking up to your Control Box are different for PRSalpha and PRSstandard tools. Make sure to go to the correct next section that describes the connection process for your specific tool.

  Installing the PRS Dust Skirt                            

 

 





The ShopBot Dust Skirt is designed to collect dust from routine operations as well as to prevent discharge of debris from the cutter. However, use of this dust skirt should not reduce or replace common industry safety practices and recommendations. Safety glasses should always be worn whenever the machine is in use. Be especially careful when the spindle or router is in operation.


These instructions show how to install the PRS dust skirt on both the PRSstandard and PRSalpha ShopBots.


Mounting the Dust Skirt

On the back of the Z axis extrusion, loosen the ¼”-20 thumb screw. It is not necessary to remove the thumb screw.



Align the shroud assembly shaft with the opening in the bottom of the extrusion. Insert the shroud assembly shaft upward into the extrusion and tighten the thumb screw.


The cutter may not be aligned in the center of the hole in the dust skirt but this should not affect performance.

 

Connecting to the Dust Collection System

            The dust skirt is designed so that the height of the dust skirt can be set by tightening the thumb screw into the dust skirt bar. The dust skirt will then move up and down with the Z-axis as it moves throughout the cutting file.

The dust skirt comes with about 24” of flex tubing and a 4” hose clamp which can be used to connect to 4” hose. You are responsible for furnishing the dust collection system and any necessary connections that run between the dust skirt and the dust collection system. We recommend the use of tubing/hose containing a built-in metal conduit. ShopBot does not provide either dust collection solutions or hose to connect the dust skirt to the dust collection system.

Connecting Overhead Dust Collection 

The Y-upper Echain bracket has a tab that comes with two hose clamps to hold a 4” overhead dust collection hose. A dust collection system with hose is available as an accessory from ShopBot. Extend the length of the overhead dust hose to the ShopBot dust skirt and connect to the dust skirt. Make sure that there is enough hose to accommodate the lowest position of the Z axis, then secure the hose to the Y-upper Echain bracket with the provided hose clamps.         
            Positioning the dust skirt at a depth equal to the tip of the bit will cause the dust skirting to grossly deflect and may cause premature wear or even failure in the plastic shroud. In some 3D applications the dust skirt may not be applicable or practical if relief of the part is greater than 4”.

Grounding the Dust Skirt                            

Dust collection systems can generate a high amount of static electricity. We recommend that users ground their dust collection systems to help prevent static discharge. This static discharge can create electrical noise which can disrupt the control system and has the potential to start a fire in the dust inside the hose or collection system.

When using wire reinforced hose, the grounding clip on the dust skirt should be clipped to the reinforcing wire. The other end of this reinforcing wire should be connected to a good electrical ground such as the frame of the dust collector, NOT to the ShopBot!

 

When hose without a reinforcing wire is used, it is necessary to run copper wiring through the inside of the tubing as well as around the outside. Run a thin-gauge wire through the inside of the tubing that will reach from the dust skirt’s grounding clip to a grounding location on the dust collector’s frame. Wrap a second thin-gauge wire from the dust skirts grounding clip to the same grounding location on the dust collector. This wire should encircle the tubing every foot for the full length of the tubing. Both wires should be clipped to the dust skirt and grounded to the same location on the frame of the dust collector.

 

Using a ShopBot with the Dust Skirt              

Caution: Never attempt to place hands in or near the dust skirt while the spindle/router is turning

 

Changing Bits with the Dust Skirt in place

To change bits, loosen the thumb screw until it frees the shroud assembly shaft. With the collet of the Z-axis resting about 6” above the material, allow the dust skirt to rest at the bottom of its travel . The dust skirt should fall out of the way so that the collet and shaft of the router/spindle are exposed to change tooling.



After the bit change, position the dust skirt to the desired height and retighten the thumb screw

 

 

Setting the correct height for the Dust Skirt

Setting the dust skirt to the correct height is most often dependent on the material thickness and length of bit. Set the height of the dust skirt equal to the material thickness, minus 1/8” above the tip of the bit. This allows the bit to reach full depth of cut and only deflects the dust skirting slightly




  

 

 

                    
   




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